by Dexter Cirillo
Last night we spent a pleasurable evening at the venerable Gilcrease Museum listening to a presentation on contemporary southwestern Native American jewelry by author Dexter Cirillo. Currently on a book signing and speaking engagement tour, Gilcrease and Tulsa were pleased to have Dexter, who is also a native Oklahoman born in Durant, back in our state after such an extended departure. Dexter, who holds a Ph.D. in English from the Graduate Center of the City University of New York, has recently published her second book on southwestern jewelry, Southwestern Indian Jewelry: Creating New Traditions. This particular collection encompasses more than 80 contemporary Native American jewelers from 18 tribes including familiar names like Liz Wallace, Myron Panteah, Jared Chavez (participating in our April show "Jewelry: No Lines, No Production"), Kee Yazzi, Dylan Poblano, etc.
Dexter introduced herself by providing a little context for the book as well as her background as a collector and author. She then proceeded through each of the three chapters providing images on a projector as well as anecodtal information about each of the participating artists,
whom she interviewed each personally. Below are a few intersting quotes form the evening:
whom she interviewed each personally. Below are a few intersting quotes form the evening:- "Southwestern Indian Jewelry is a about adornment."
- SW Native jewelry is a "window into the ceremonial life."
- I wanted to "celebrate Native flora in noble metals" - Liz Wallace
- "Love the metal and it will love you back." - Myron Panteah quoting Hirotoshi Itoh
Dexter touched on the "Revival Style" movement, which is a return to the more "traditional" aesthetic of turquoise and silver work, but with subtle hints of the contemporary. An example of this can be seen in the work of Perry Shorty, known for his method of collecting coins by Charles Barber, melting them down into ingot bars, then pounding them out into sheets for use in his designs. She also talked a good deal about the dynamic duo of Yazzie Johnson and Gail Bird, attributing a phasic shift in contemporary jewelry to a Best of Show winner in the 1981 Heard Museum Indian Market.
Overall, a very enjoyable and enlightening evening, particulalry for the less well-versed collector of Native Southwestern Jewelry. The beautifully photographed book (courtesy of Addison Doty) spans an immense amount of work and information and is a must have for any collector, curator, and gallery. The hardback book is available via Amazon and retails for $55.00.
Lastly, if one was looking for a few "collector suggestions," two things. Early uses of Gaspiate and current shifts in Hopi overlay...that's all I'm sayin'!

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